Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Test Versus Bare Metal Foil

 

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Models Currently on the Go:
Monogram: #2791 Valvoline March Indy Car 1/24
Tamiya: #14006 Honda CB750F
Revell: 85-4498 1/24 Land Rover Series III 109 Long Wheelbase

Completed Builds:
soon, with video

 

Build Links:

Tamiya: #14006 Honda CB750F

Paint Pens instead of Brushes? Here
Liquid Chrome Pen Review Here
Molotow vs Bare Metal Foil Here

 

Quick Info:
Molotow on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3fEa8df
Approx Price: Under $20
Tamiya Model on Amazon: Honda CBR750 #14006
Approx Price: Under $50

 

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See the first 13 steps on the Molotow Review

Step 14:
All Cleaned up and Ready to Go again:

After a mediocre attempt at the first Molotow Pen try, I decided to do an Exhaust pipe over and also do one with Bare Metal Foil and see which I liked Best.

 

Step 15:
Scrap Paper will give you an idea :

Using scrap paper is a quick way to figure out how much metal foil you need, this stuff is 10 bucks for a sheet so if your like me you want to get the most you can from a sheet. I used the Bright Chrome version of BMF (bare metal foil).

 

Step 16:
Wow Bare Metal Foil Looks Great:

Burnishing (gently rubbing) the foil lightly with a wooden toothpick makes the foil adhere nicely to the exhaust, this foil is super thin so clean up is very important because even fine scratches will show through after the foil is stuck. Cleaning good beforehand pays off with a great surface when completed.

 

Step 17:
Careful about the edges:

From the factory the sheets of bare metal foil have no adhesive a few millimeters from the edge, you can see I left that part attached and used fully adhesive backed piece for my part. This stuff burnishes just wonderful and I'm not even sure it would matter, but I wasn't taking any chances.

 

Step 18:
Look how that thin edge just disappears:

Keep rubbing away and those seems just disappear, and because of that you don't need to be afraid about using or overlapping pieces.

 

Step 19:
Wrap it around the edges:

Because there is an endcap that fits inside the pipe I knew I didn't need to be fancy, just enough to go around the edge and the ugly wrinkly foil got trimmed later with a sharp new blade..

 

Step 20:
The Foil shapes into all kinds of places easily.:

Just like me, this pipe is also suffering from a huge depression, good thing is the foil didn't care and it conformed in there nicely, I did use a couple pieces of scrap but they blended away to become invisible..

 

Step 21:
Top one is Molotow - Bottom is BMF:

Final words - Molotow is great for small little things you want to highlight like bolt heads and little details here and there but not great for larger smooth surfaces. The BMF is much more forgiving and ends up with just a solid job that I believe would be more durable, both look good under a clear coat. I plan on smoothing out the one in molotow and finishing it with the foil so both pipes will end up on the model as foil covered.

This Motorcycle model is coming along nicely, watch the main page for more as I plan on releasing a few steps for several models over the next few weeks. My Indy car is on the final decal stage and will need an entire site and video made for it, I have so many cool models in the pile the hardest thing will be for me to decide what to do next, Possibly might be a Model A ford that has fewer parts and should move along quickly but I have a sweet helicopter, a cool staff car, some nice nascar, a hot rod, and a sick 1/9 scale Army motorcycle.

 

 

 

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Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker vs Bare Metal Foil - Tested on Motorcyle Model Kit from Tamiya