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Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Test on Tamiya Honda CB750F Model #14006


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Models Currently on the Go:
Monogram: #2791 Valvoline March Indy Car 1/24
Tamiya: #14006 Honda CB750F
Revell: 85-4498 1/24 Land Rover Series III 109 Long Wheelbase

Completed Builds:
soon, with video


Build Links:

Tamiya: #14006 Honda CB750F

Liquid Chrome Pen Review Here
Molotow vs Bare Metal Foil Here


Quick Info:
Molotow on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3fEa8df
Approx Price: Under $20
Tamiya Model on Amazon: Honda CBR750 #14006
Approx Price: Under $50


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Step 1:
Spy your parts:

Here is the sprew with the exhause pipes that we need to remove before we can do anything.


Step 2:
Cut them from the Sprew:

Here you can see the attachment points. If you don't have a sprue cutter tool you can use normal snips like shown in the next picture.


Step 3:
Cut them from the Sprew as close as possible:

Here you can see the proper way to remove an item from the sprew, this way there will be the least amount of clean up after it is cut..


Step 4:
Check out the big nubs of plastic left behind after cutting:

Now if you are handy with an exacto knife, especially one with an #11 blade on it you can remove these plastic bits even closer to the part, but I normally just file them with an agressive sanding stick and then a nice needle file.


Step 5:
Proper Tools make all the difference:

I digged my fine Needle File out of the hobby tin where it normally lives and got ready to clean these parts up..


Step 6:
Even careful filing can make a mess of it:

Keep in mind that this picture is quite zoomed and it looks worse than it actually is, now i get ready for the next step.


Step 7:
Very important to prepare properly for Glue:

Using my file and a hobby knife I carefully scraped away all the plating from where the pieces will join. A good sharp blade is always handy, check below for a few links to some essential hobby tools.


Hobby Tip
Very important Skuff

Whether you are getting ready to glue or paint you should always skuff up the glue joins or the surface, when you first open your model kit you should always wash the sprues with soap and water and let dry. If there is paint where you plan on adding glue you will need to remove it or the glue just won't be as effective. All other plastic pieces should be skuffed up prior to paint, I use a 1500 grit sanding sponge usually and you don't need to do much, just knock the shine off the parts and the paint will adhere wonderfully. Proper roughing of the surface can even eliminate the need for primer and keep part details sharper because of the less layers of paint.


Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is my "Go To" for most gluing needs, if you click the picture it leads to Amazon where you can buy some if ya want.

Also a Great Hobby Knife is very important - https://amzn.to/30i678c
300 Replacement Blades at a great price, they go faster than you think if your a regular hobbyist - https://amzn.to/3eCTcTs


Step 8:
After the 2 halves are joined you can see the nasty seam:

Now we need to smoothen out that seam as much as possible, this is where my needle file came in handy once again. After several minutes of careful work I had some seams that were ready to test out this liquid chrome, this is the first time for using it..


Step 9:
The Entire Seam is cleaned up:

Not the best photo ever but you can get an idea of how to clean up that seam, if you do models often this step comes naturally by now.


Step 10:
Brand new Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen is Opened:

As you can see the tip has no ink or paint or anything, all you need to do now is depress the tip against something a few times until you see that chrome flow..


Step 11:
That Chrome is ready to go:

After 5 or 6 gentle pumps against a hard surface, this marker is ready to paint some chrome.


Step 12:
I should have filled that gap better:

I was eager to begin but I should have used some putty to fill that small depression before applying the chrome. Here you can see I only did near the tip but wow the results speak for themselves, this is certainly the most chrome like product I've seen so far. I am certain this will be a normal tool in my hobby kit from now on but I wasn't satisfied with the results quite yet.


Step 13:
Pretty Gross, but I know I can do better:

I ended up pushing some chunks around the tip and it looked pretty horrible but still I am very happy with this product and I give it a high rating.



Final Words
I am a Fan of this Chrome Liquid

As of now I have cleaned all the chrome off and properly did the seams with some 1500 grit sandpaper. Tomorrow or the next day I plan on a new experiment with Molotow vs Bare Metal Foil. I will try and do the Molotow chrome on one exhaust and then do another with the foil to compare the two. Because the chrome liquid comes out of the marker in blobs I will try smoothing it out a bit as I go with a very soft brush. When I do that test I will add a Link right below this text here so you might want to keep checking back. I am currently working on 4 model kits (Motorcycle, Land Rover, Indy Car and a Cool WW2 Staff Car) and I plan on making Youtube Videos and also Step by Step build pages like this one with lots of pretty pictures. Hey its the Corona Virus Days while I type this, we are all bored stiff...



As promised - Here we go with the Molotow vs Bare Metal Foil Here




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Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Tested on Model Kit from Tamiya




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